A Guide to Platinum Jewelry
Platinum is a rare and precious metal known for its bright white hue, durability, and hypoallergenic properties. It’s often considered a premier metal for fine jewelry, offering a combination of beauty and robustness that will ensure that your cherished pieces will last for years to come.
Platinum’s natural brilliance and weight give it a luxurious feel, making it a top choice for engagement rings, wedding bands, and other meaningful pieces.
In this guide, we’ll explore platinum’s history, unique properties, comparisons to white gold, and care tips.
From Ancient Pieces to Modern Fine Jewelry
Platinum’s presence in jewelry spans centuries, with early traces found in ancient Egypt and among the La Tolita people of South America, where it naturally occurred within gold used for decorative objects and ceremonial artifacts. Despite these findings, platinum’s high melting point (3221.6°F) and strength made it difficult to work with, delaying its widespread use until technology advanced.
In the 1600s, while exploring South America, the Spanish discovered platinum and named it platina, meaning “little silver”. It was originally dismissed because it was considered an impurity in the gold and silver deposits they sought after. This reflects the limited refining techniques of the time, which favored easily worked and widely valued metals like gold.
By the late 1800s, advancements in refining processes made platinum more accessible for use in fine jewelry. Its high durability, resistance to tarnish, and bright hue made it a standout choice for intricate designs, earning it a favored position during the bold aesthetics of the Art Deco era.
Although the First and Second World Wars temporarily halted its use, platinum had a comeback in the 1960s – led by Japan’s appreciation for its purity.
By the 1990s, its popularity had spread globally and it became a top choice for high-end pieces that carried prestige.
Platinum Alloys in Jewelry
Like gold, pure platinum is too soft on its own to handle the demands of everyday wear in practical jewelry. To enhance its strength and durability, platinum is combined with small amounts of other metals to form an alloy.
The most common composition used in jewelry is 95% platinum, with 5% cobalt or palladium. This alloy is marked as “950 platinum”; it provides the perfect balance of durability and workability while maintaining platinum’s signature properties. Some pieces may also feature an alloy of 90% platinum and 10% other metals, which is indicated by the hallmark “900 platinum.” These hallmarks are often stamped inside the band of rings or on the back of other jewelry to verify their composition and quality.
By alloying platinum with other metals, jewelers create pieces that are not only beautiful but also strong enough to withstand daily wear while preserving the metal’s bright white shine.
Platinum vs. White Gold: What’s the Difference?
When deciding between platinum and white gold, understanding the key differences can help you choose the metal that’s right for your jewelry:
- Composition and Appearance:
Platinum is a naturally white metal, while white gold is an alloy created by mixing yellow gold with metals like nickel or palladium to achieve its white color. Furthermore, in jewelry white gold is often plated with rhodium, a member of the platinum group, to enhance its brightness. This rhodium plating wears off over time, requiring periodic re-plating to maintain its color, whereas platinum retains its natural silvery-white hue without additional maintenance. - Durability:
Platinum is significantly more durable than white gold. While white gold is strong, it loses small amounts of metal over time due to wear and tear, especially in prongs and high-contact areas. In contrast, platinum’s density and strength ensure that it wears down more slowly, and instead of losing metal, it “compresses” upon itself. This makes it much more durable, and a great metal for setting gemstones. Furthermore, platinum’s scratch resistance is also superior. - Weight and Feel:
Platinum is heavier and denser than white gold, giving it a solid, luxurious feel when worn. White gold, being lighter, can be more comfortable for those who prefer less weight in their jewelry. - Cost:
Platinum is far rarer than white gold. While each year there are approximately 1,500 tons of gold mined from the earth, only about 160 tons of platinum is extracted. Traditionally, this made platinum more expensive. However, with gold currently fetching higher prices, this dynamic has shifted. Despite this, platinum jewelry still demands high prices due to the additional material and craftsmanship required to work with its dense, durable nature. Furthermore, platinum pieces still carry a sense of luxury with them due to their rarity and durability - Maintenance:
Platinum requires less maintenance than white gold since it doesn’t need rhodium plating to maintain its color. Over time, platinum may develop a patina, which can be polished to restore its original shine. White gold, on the other hand, requires regular re-plating to keep its bright white finish. - Hypoallergenic Properties:
Platinum is hypoallergenic; it’s a great metal choice for those with metal sensitivities. White gold, depending on its alloy composition, may contain nickel, which can cause allergic reactions in some people.
Why Choose One Over the Other?
Platinum is the better choice for those seeking unmatched durability, minimal maintenance, and hypoallergenic properties. It’s the ideal choice for heirloom pieces and jewelry with intricate designs that need to last for generations. On the other hand, white gold is a great option for those looking for a similar aesthetic at a typically lower price point, with the understanding that it may require more upkeep over time.
In the end, platinum and white gold are both great metals for fine jewelry. The right choice depends on your preferences, budget, and how you plan to wear the piece.
Caring for Your Platinum Jewelry
Platinum’s durability makes it low-maintenance, but proper care of this luxurious metal will help keep it looking its best:
- Cleaning: Wash your platinum jewelry periodically with a mild soap and warm water solution. Use a soft brush to remove dirt, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry with a lint-free cloth.
- Polishing: Over time, your platinum piece may develop a patina—a soft sheen that many people love for its unique character. If you prefer its original shine, professional polishing can easily restore its brightness.
- Storage: Keep platinum pieces in a soft pouch or jewelry box to avoid minor scratches. Storing them separately from other metals minimizes wear.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Platinum is resistant to tarnish but should still be removed when swimming or using cleaning products containing chlorine to maintain its integrity.
Why Choose Platinum?
Platinum’s unmatched durability, natural beauty, and rarity make it a symbol of lasting value and elegance.
Its soft white color enhances the brilliance of diamonds and gemstones, while its hypoallergenic properties make it a safe choice for those with sensitive skin. Whether you’re looking for an engagement ring or a custom-designed piece, platinum offers a timeless quality that will be cherished for years to come.
At Kim Quang Fine Jewelry, we proudly offer a curated selection of platinum jewelry, from engagement rings to custom designs tailored to your vision. Visit our San Diego showroom to experience the brilliance and quality of platinum for yourself. Our team is here to help you find the perfect piece to celebrate life’s most meaningful moments.